Isla Grande, Islas De Rosario, Colombia:
Free accomodations, drinks, food, kayaking, banana-boating...
Great company
Swimming in phosphorescent lagoons
Room Service
Sun
Fun
Tranquila
Some stories need to be told in person.
Going out dancing tonight in Cartagena with my new friends from Isla Grande
Besos,
Mamauchi
And did I mention I got another marriage proposal?
Friday, July 29, 2011
Monday, July 25, 2011
My Colombian name is Mamauchi
Went to Tayrona National Park 2 days ago. I met a friendly family from Bogota on the micro (small public bus) that took us from the entrance of the park to the start of the hike. The National Park is a string of beautiful beaches that is accessible by hiking through the jungle. I walked through the jungle with Sonia Esperanza, the mother, and her 20 year old son Juan David. Juan David and I swam in the Caribbean Ocean and Sonia was very maternal with me.
I stupidly brought my hefty back pack so it was a strenuous and exhausting 3 hour hike to the pristine beach Cabo San Juan de La Guia. It was at the beachs camping site that a group of 4 Colombians invited me to join them to drink some agardiente, a popular anis-flavored spirit. We hung out on the beach and I learned how to dance vallenato. They are a funny group and really made me feel welcome. They gave me a spot in their tent so I did not have to sleep in my rented hammock, which is a mosquitos paradise. One of them drunkenly proposed to me before he passed out (he has since retracted the invitation).
Yesterday, they invited me to their hometown on Baranquilla, an industrial port city and the fourth largest in Colombia. The hike back to their car was much less difficult as the guys insisted on carrying my 10 kilo back pack for me. Ah chivalry! After stopping by one of their parents summer homes in Santa Marta to shower and have lunch after Tayrona, we arrived in Baranquilla around 6:30. I met Cesar and Edgars family, as well as Juan Carlos. We ate Colombian fast food then went to a salsa club. They gave me the nickname Mamauchi. We drank a lot of aguardiente and stayed up late, laughing, dancing and carrying on.
I stayed at Andres apartment last night, which is a typical bachelor pad- he does not like to clean. Today the guys are going to show me around the city before I head to Cartagena. They have been wonderful hosts. As I am writing, Andres is preparing a big breakfast.
I Love Colombia!!
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| From South America |
I stupidly brought my hefty back pack so it was a strenuous and exhausting 3 hour hike to the pristine beach Cabo San Juan de La Guia. It was at the beachs camping site that a group of 4 Colombians invited me to join them to drink some agardiente, a popular anis-flavored spirit. We hung out on the beach and I learned how to dance vallenato. They are a funny group and really made me feel welcome. They gave me a spot in their tent so I did not have to sleep in my rented hammock, which is a mosquitos paradise. One of them drunkenly proposed to me before he passed out (he has since retracted the invitation).
 |
| From South America |
Yesterday, they invited me to their hometown on Baranquilla, an industrial port city and the fourth largest in Colombia. The hike back to their car was much less difficult as the guys insisted on carrying my 10 kilo back pack for me. Ah chivalry! After stopping by one of their parents summer homes in Santa Marta to shower and have lunch after Tayrona, we arrived in Baranquilla around 6:30. I met Cesar and Edgars family, as well as Juan Carlos. We ate Colombian fast food then went to a salsa club. They gave me the nickname Mamauchi. We drank a lot of aguardiente and stayed up late, laughing, dancing and carrying on.
 |
| From South America |
I stayed at Andres apartment last night, which is a typical bachelor pad- he does not like to clean. Today the guys are going to show me around the city before I head to Cartagena. They have been wonderful hosts. As I am writing, Andres is preparing a big breakfast.
I Love Colombia!!
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| From South America |
Friday, July 22, 2011
Quito for 12 Hours
Flor picked me up at the airport and gave me an unbelievably comfortable bed to sleep in. We stayed up late chatting and laughing before we both passed out, exhausted from our long day.
In the morning, I walked all over the Old Town. Quito is a beautiful city. Although, there is a noticeable amount of pollution. Surrounded by mountains with colorful homes scattered on the crests, it is the second highest city in the world. It took a lot out of me to climb up the hills. The Quitenos are also very friendly. Maybe the friendliest I have encountered so far in South America. I had a 20 minute conversation with the couple who owned the juice stand by the Iglesia de Santo Domingo. Looking forward to returning some day.
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| From South America |
In the morning, I walked all over the Old Town. Quito is a beautiful city. Although, there is a noticeable amount of pollution. Surrounded by mountains with colorful homes scattered on the crests, it is the second highest city in the world. It took a lot out of me to climb up the hills. The Quitenos are also very friendly. Maybe the friendliest I have encountered so far in South America. I had a 20 minute conversation with the couple who owned the juice stand by the Iglesia de Santo Domingo. Looking forward to returning some day.
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| From South America |
Thursday, July 21, 2011
Living it Up in Lima
After a 26-hour bus ride that was supposed to take 18 hours, I finally arrived in Lima, Peru at 9PM this evening. I was actually 35 hours in transit as I started my journey from Copacabana, Bolivia earlier that day at 1PM! Considering how long I was on the bus, the ride was pretty pleasant. There was an adorable 2 year old child that I played football with. Everytime he kicked the ball, he yelled GOAL!!! I sat next to a Colombian man who I at first abhorred because he snored through the night. But Edwin turned out to be quite pleasant and invited me to dinner with his friends when I visit Bogota. I read and wrote a lot and watched the film The Mechanic for the second time on this trip. I ate lunch with an Argentine named Javier who has lived all over South America, Europe and in Sunset Park, Brooklyn. I have a tentative plan to have lunch with him tomorrow. He lived in Lima for a few years and suggested we go to his favorite Chinese restaurant in Lima tomorrow afteroon.
As for my one evening in Peru, not on a bus that is, I have treated myself to a night at the Gran Hotel Bolivar, a colonial style luxury hotel in Plaza San Martin, right in the heart of Central Lima (Remember when we stayed there, Dad, and my eye puffed up and you almost made me leave South America early?). As they had no more single rooms available, I was upgraded to a matrimonial suite. I have a huge living room, an equally enormous bathroom, a comfortable queen sized bed, hot water and cable TV. Also- there is a balcony that overlooks the Plaza. Quite luxurious for $65. This is my hotel splurge of the trip. After I finish using the free internet in the lobby, I am going to take a long hot shower and fall asleep watching a movie. I can´t remember the last time I had a really hot shower. Or a TV. Or a quiet and clean room. Or stayed by myself.
Plan to walk around Central Lima tomorrow before I catch my flight to Quito tomorrow night at 9:46PM. Plan to see my sisters friend during my 13 hour layover in Quito.
From the drive into Lima, the city seems to have alreay made significant changes in the last four years, the last time I was here. It has a municipal bus system. The Plaza San Martin is much more developed with high-end chain stores, a more modern movie theatre and many more neon lights.
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| From South America |
As for my one evening in Peru, not on a bus that is, I have treated myself to a night at the Gran Hotel Bolivar, a colonial style luxury hotel in Plaza San Martin, right in the heart of Central Lima (Remember when we stayed there, Dad, and my eye puffed up and you almost made me leave South America early?). As they had no more single rooms available, I was upgraded to a matrimonial suite. I have a huge living room, an equally enormous bathroom, a comfortable queen sized bed, hot water and cable TV. Also- there is a balcony that overlooks the Plaza. Quite luxurious for $65. This is my hotel splurge of the trip. After I finish using the free internet in the lobby, I am going to take a long hot shower and fall asleep watching a movie. I can´t remember the last time I had a really hot shower. Or a TV. Or a quiet and clean room. Or stayed by myself.
Plan to walk around Central Lima tomorrow before I catch my flight to Quito tomorrow night at 9:46PM. Plan to see my sisters friend during my 13 hour layover in Quito.
From the drive into Lima, the city seems to have alreay made significant changes in the last four years, the last time I was here. It has a municipal bus system. The Plaza San Martin is much more developed with high-end chain stores, a more modern movie theatre and many more neon lights.
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| From South America |
Monday, July 18, 2011
Challa Beach, Bolivia
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| From South America |
Chad and I just spent two amazing days at Challa Beach on La Isla Del Sol in Bolivia. We stayed in a quiet guesthouse that we heard about from a Brazilian guy named Daniel we met in Copacabana. We told him we would see him there the following day and ran into him on the ferry to the island. We all walked to the tranquil and beautiful beach that was away from the tourist trail. The owners, Jorge, Nelson and Maria were so friendly and helpful. I loved playing with Nelson and Maria´s precious 1 year old daughter named Cielo. Nelson was a great cook and I was well-fed each meal. We ended each evening playing cards, drinking wine and having amazing conversations until the wee hours of the morning.
We swam in the spiritually purifying Lago de Titicaca, the world´s highest lake.
We rented a row boat and explored the neighboring capes and coves.
We had lots of table quizzes- long story.
We hiked up to the nearest vantage point to watch the sunset.
I made a great new friend, Daniel.
I read, laughed, had my palm read and created wonderful memories.
Tomorrow I will cross the border into Peru and take a 24 hour bus to Lima so I can catch my flight to Santa Marta, Colombia.
The chapter of traveling with friends closes tonight. Having dinner with Chad and El Cactus and I begin the next chapter, traveling by myself, tomorrow. A little nervous but extremely excited!!
Besos
Friday, July 15, 2011
Biking Down The World´s Most Dangerous Road
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| From South America |
Yesterday I biked 65 km down the world´s most dangerous road. We started in La Cumbre at 8AM at 4,700 m. Over the next few hours, I descended over 3,600m to the town of Yolosa. The second half of the journey was on a narrow, one-lane gravel road that had some pretty sharp turns. Amazing ride. A real adrenaline rush and made it back in one piece.
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Cooking Dinners and Falling Down Stairs
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| From South America |
Today I fell down an entire flight of stairs in the La Casa de La Libertad, a well preserved 17th Century colonial building where Bolivian independence was declared. Below is a photo of the lovely staircase. Fortunately, the only injuries I sustained were a bump on my head, which I have been icing diligently, and a cut on my right hip. I am so lucky that I was not more hurt!!
While I was icing in the kitchen today (see photo above), El Cactus prepared lunch for me.
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| From South America |
Chad, El Cactus and I have been enjoying Sucre. We spent yesterday wandering around the city, visiting churches, dancing to marching bands practices, trying all the street food we see and trying to find the cheapest place to stay. Last night, Chad left for Cochabamba and I will join him tomorrow night.
I have been cooking a lot the last few days. It is great to be back in the kitchen and, if my mom saw me, she would say I was being a happy little homemaker.
Treating myself to a fancy dinner tonight as a result of my injury. Always good to have an excuse to treat yourself. Meeting El Menscho for dinner.
Friday, July 8, 2011
So Long Los Gauchos
The original three have now gone their separate ways. We had a great final night by watching the Copa America match between Bolivia and Costa Rica. We viewed the match at Bolvian bar with several jars of ¨Limonada¨, lemonade with Bolivian fire water. We were joined by the fourth Gaucho, who arrived to Potosi yesterday morning.
Big hugs, some kisses too (none for Chad- he doesn´t like kisses from friends).
Tonight I am cooking a vegetarian feast. Will head to Sucre tomorrow morning and will have lunch with Chad and El Menscho Magico.
Big hugs, some kisses too (none for Chad- he doesn´t like kisses from friends).
Tonight I am cooking a vegetarian feast. Will head to Sucre tomorrow morning and will have lunch with Chad and El Menscho Magico.
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
Potosi´s Working Mines
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| From South America Random |
Since the 16th Century, Bolivianos have been working in the Cerro Rico, ¨The Rich Mountian¨ in Potosi in search of precious metals, such as silver and tin. Today we took a tour of a cooperative mine and climbed through the narrow passageways to see the work of the miners, to understand the hardships of the work and to learn about the history of this city´s desire for economic prosperity. After just spending an hour and a half in the mine, climbing on all fours at around 4200m above sea level, seeing the backbreaking work of the laborers and hearing their stories, there are clear injustices within the mining communities that exist here. It paints a bleak picture of the mining industry around the world and sadly there do not seem to be any real potential solutions in sight. Geologists estimate that the Cerro Rico has about 80-100 years until it is tapped of its resources. Miners continue to probe the mountain with dynamite in search of a profitable rock while they are inhaling toxic fumes, working in extremely hot regions and lacking proper safety equipment and health insurance.
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| From South America Random |
Monday, July 4, 2011
What planet are we on?
In the last four days, I have seen some of the most beautiful sights located in a teeny, tiny corner of the world: red lagoons, green lagoons, cacti, geysers, volcanoes, ghost towns, petrified rock formations, llamas, vicuñas, desert, thermal baths, flamingos, snow-capped mountains, chincillas and THE SALT FLATS! A lot of time in the car and too much wind but it was definitely worth it! Our guide Fidel and cook Carmen were amazing and I will definitely miss them!!
We slept at 4800m, got altitude sickness, appreciated the night sky and I got my hair cut by an awesome Scottish backpacker last night before I went to sleep.
Today at the Salar de Uyuni, the world´s largest salt flats, I sat on top of our jeep as it drove through the seemingly endless white expanse. We took great pictures and have checked into the only hotel in Uyuni that has heat. We are cold and wet and ready to have a good night´s sleep at a normal altitude. We had a great addition to our group on the four-day trip: a cool Aussie named Tim (El Menscho Magico) who brought humor and rock-climbing knowledge to the group, among many other things.
We are celebrating the 4th of July in style by heading to the local pizza restaurant that is run by an Amherst alum- no joke!
Our plan is to head to Potosi but we are not sure if we are going to be able to leave this dingy, cold and run-down tourist town because it is snowing and the buses are not running. Hmmm....
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| From South America Random |
We slept at 4800m, got altitude sickness, appreciated the night sky and I got my hair cut by an awesome Scottish backpacker last night before I went to sleep.
 |
| From South America Random |
Today at the Salar de Uyuni, the world´s largest salt flats, I sat on top of our jeep as it drove through the seemingly endless white expanse. We took great pictures and have checked into the only hotel in Uyuni that has heat. We are cold and wet and ready to have a good night´s sleep at a normal altitude. We had a great addition to our group on the four-day trip: a cool Aussie named Tim (El Menscho Magico) who brought humor and rock-climbing knowledge to the group, among many other things.
 |
| From South America Random |
We are celebrating the 4th of July in style by heading to the local pizza restaurant that is run by an Amherst alum- no joke!
 |
| From South America Random |
Our plan is to head to Potosi but we are not sure if we are going to be able to leave this dingy, cold and run-down tourist town because it is snowing and the buses are not running. Hmmm....
 |
| From South America Random |
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